Dave macleod is a climber based in the west highlands of scotland. In april 2006 he established the climb rhapsody on dumbarton rock which, at a grade of e11 7a, was possibly the hardest traditional climbing route in the world at the time and looks set to be confirmed as the most difficult in the uk. Trotter had attempted rhapsody, the first trad climb to receive an e11. Canadian sonnie trotter has made the second ascent of rhapsody, dave macleod s e11 at dumbarton rock, scotland. On june 9, canadian sonnie trotter made the second ascent of dave macleod s rhapsody e11 7a 5. Scottish dave macleod has climbed the direct finish to requiem at dumbarton rock, scotland, calling the climb rhapsody and grading the route e11 7a.
He is known for being the first climber in the world to climb in free solo style without rope a 8c 5. All i can think reading dave s blog this morning was that i was inspired and thanks for sharing it. Traditional or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers place all gear required to protect against falls, and remove it when a pitch is complete. He has climbed trad routes that have broken a new level of world class difficulty with rhapsody e11 and echo wall e11. Books and training equipment for improving at rock climbing by dave macleod, including 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes, make or break, the. Scottish dave macleod has climbed the direct finish to requiem at dumbarton rock, scotland, calling the climb rhapsody and grading the. Jacopo larcher from italy has made the fifth ascent of dave macleod s rhapsody, e11 7a, at dumbarton rock, just west of glasgow, scotland. For example, a trad bolted route may have bolts from. I noted the part you wrote about the glycogen supplies in the muscles. In december 2009, macleods book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. First discovering climbing at age 15, scottish climber dave macleod stands as one of the climbing worlds most prolific leaders in the challenging realm of first ascents over the past decade, dave has developed countless new routes across the world in virtually every discipline of the sport. Dave macleod and andy kirkpatrick talk first ascents. Dave macleod worked his way past the crux of rhapsody, the first ascent he had been battling for years on dumbarton rock in scotland, knowing that a final stretch and a formidable grip would soon be all that stood between him and completing the most challenging route in the world at the time the first to be graded e11 with e standing for extremely severe, the toughest. Dave macleod on the direct finish to rhapsody, e11 7a ph.
If you dont know much about dave i would recommend checking out echo wall or rhapsody. All curated by dave macleod and dispatched worldwide since 2006. On june 9, 2008, sonnie trotter made the second ascent of dave macleods 35metre rhapsody e11 7a 5. Dave macleod is a professional climber and coach based in the highlands of scotland. Told in an offbeat dramadoc style the film attempts to understand what it takes to climb a route of this standard. The highlight of the video is the worlds first e11 and hardest traditional rock climb. This makes it a strong contender for one of the hardest trad pitches in the world. I have been really interested in his approach to hard and risky projects.
Sonnie trotter from canada has just made the coveted second ascent of rhapsody, dave macleod s e11 at dumbarton rock, scotland. The ascent was very well featured in the e11 dvd with a personal story including some long falls. Barbara olson has 16 books on goodreads with 997 ratings. As a scot, dave is schooled in both trad climbing and new routing in. Dave and his wife claire run rare breed productions, making films, books and other creative things. Facebook gives people the power to share and makes the. At dumbarton rock, rhapsody graded e11 7a is the direct finish to requiem e8 6b, put up by dave cuthbertson in 1983. After working on it for two years it only took 10 minutes for dave macleod to put up the hardest trad rock climb in the world. Matt clay mar 21, 2017 estill county, ky joined mar 2015 points. Dave macleod my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes source. Pearson claims e12 on english slab climbing magazine. Books and training equipment for improving at rock climbing by dave macleod, including 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes, make or break, the edge hangboard and many other titles and useful items. Trotter sent the line after a monthlong siege during which he fought hard against the fickle local weather and the technical difficulties of the route which. Perhaps best known for trad and scottish winter climbing, dave is also an outstanding boulderer and has more recently has begun to repeat some of the hardest routes in the alps including bellavista 8c in the dolomites and paciencia 8a on the eiger.
Well, nine out of ten is really like a behavioral science book rather than a training book. If you havent heard of friends of nevis, they are the charity. A muerte, bouldering in the glen, if 6 was 9 and the hurting plus plenty of character insight. Rhapsody, e11, climbed by dave macleod on sunday the 9th of april 2006. Find all the books, read about the author, and more.
Dave macleod, first ascensionsist of many bold routes including the uks first e11, rhapsody, takes a closer look at ilgners approach. Dave macleod has a string of outstanding ascents to his name. I have been watching a lot of dave macleod lately and thought i would post one of his latest videos about his upcoming project. Dave macleod shop training for climbing books, hangboards. The video will be ready for purchase by the 21st of october, but you can preorder it now on dave macleod website. Claire and i have just finished a series of 6 podcasts about glen nevis on behalf of friends of nevis. Tbp 039 dave macleod on training, fear, injuries, and. There is a tremendous amount of logic behind what dave macleod did and that deserves a pile of respect i think. Barbara olsons most popular book is the final days. Trotter had attempted rhapsody the first climb to receive an e11 grade, and known as one of the worlds most challenging traditionally protected routeswithout success last year, but he returned for four weeks this spring to finish his project. Designs based on all of our filmsvideos, bring the psych wherever you go dave macleod on rhapsody e11. The bolts tend to be much farther apart than sport climbs.
In april 2006, he established the climb rhapsody on dumbarton rock which, at a grade. He is well known for his personal climbing achievements. Dave macleod project gutenberg selfpublishing ebooks. John has done a superb job as usual creating a beautiful little book full. Paul diffley this is the first trad route namely no bolts or peg, but just traditional protections nuts, friends of such a grade in the uk grading scale that had e10 as topend the first part of the grade e11 indicates the danger of the route, while the second.
Even though i feel ive always been eating quite well, i do regularly have my muscle energy draining after climbing some intense routes, without my muscles actually getting pumped. Over the past few years ive made films and written books but recently i was asked to do something new for me produce a series of podcasts. Omg, dave macleod is one of my top two favorite climbers. Traditional bolted face climbing means the bolts were placed on lead andor with hand drills. You hardly have to read a few pages of arno ilgners book on mental factors in climbing. Racing weight quick start guide matt fitzgeralds first text on weight optimisation for endurance athletes is a first in its field and understandably a best seller its a rather essential book to have if you are a runner, cyclist or triathlete. Dave macleod goodreads meet your next favorite book. Id been following his progress on camera for just over a year, this became my first major film e11. Couple this segment with the macleods film of echo wall and a view of e11 for a resume of outstanding ability. World heritage encyclopedia, the aggregation of the largest. About dave macleod, e11 trad climber, 9a sport, v15 bouldering, xii mixed and author of two bestselling books on training for rock climbing, climbing injuries and climbing coaching. He has also climbed v in bouldering, 9a in sport climbing and xi in scottish mixed climbing.
Dave macleod is based in the highlands of scotland and has developed his skills across a wide range of climbing disciplines to become one of the best all round climbers youll meet. Dave macleod is the author of 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes 4. Dave macleod born 17 july 1978 is a scottish rock climber. Join facebook to connect with dave macleod and others you may know. Last summer macleod established a new route, the echo wall, on ben nevis in scotland, and said it was harder and scarier than rhapsody. In april 2006, macleod established the climb rhapsody on dumbarton rock which, at a grade of e11 7a, was possibly. E11 tells the story behind the first ascent of rhapsody, a route considered to be the hardest traditional rock climb in the world. Designs based on all of our filmsvideos, bring the psych wherever you go. Although i do get into the details of what exercises you can do on a climbing wall and how you should use a finger board or a campus board and all of the nitty gritty of training, the basic point of the book is to worry less about those. That time sonnie trotter sent rhapsody e11 gripped magazine. The only rule is dont bail left to the arete a cop. Now thats what i call a first ascent rhapsody, e11, dave macleod. Graded e11 the maximum difficulty on the british trad grading system it marked, in those days, a new era of difficulties for this type of climbing.
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